A few days ago I did a google search
for “mountains of Seoul” and there at the top of the list was a
Wikipedia page made just for those three words. It was a list of
over 40 peaks and a warning from the author that it is likely
incomplete. The Adirondacks have their 46 and it seems that Seoul
has its 40. The difference is that Seoul's mountains are much lower
in elevation, day hikes at most from what I've heard, and much more
accessible by subway or bus. I scanned the list recognizing a few of
the names from my previous research when one of the names popped out.
Bugaksan, the one that I could, at that point, check off my list.
I had read about Bugaksan in an article
from a blog entitled “Hiking Seoul Fortress”. Hiking, fortress
walls, history and great accessibility were all positives making me
think that this would be a good introduction to hiking in Seoul. One
of my Korean co-teachers did some research as well and it was her
that mobilized a small group from our hogwan to make the 2 hour
metro/bus commute to the trail head. The local bus was filled with
fellow hikers but once we all hit the trail the groups dispersed
enough so that it didn't seem too crowded as we made our way through
a forest, up stairs, and over a wall on our way to Sukjeongmun gate.
At a reception center just before the
gate we presented our passports, filled out a form, and handed it to
the young attendants who passed us back some tourist info, a map of
Seoul fortress, and a visitors pass to hang around our necks. This
section of the wall is the most heavily secured hike that I've been
on until now. All along trail there are casually dressed attendants
with radios making sure that nothing suspicious is going on and that
tourist weren't taking pictures where they weren't supposed to be
taking pictures. It's the northern section of the Seoul fortress
wall and it happens to weave across a mountain ridge located just
behind, high above the presidential palace, Cheongwadae (Blue House).
In 1968, 30 North Korean commandos crossed over this section of the
wall on route to attack the palace. A tree along the trail bears
evidence of the battle that ensued. Along the trail that pedestrians
walk you can look off at certain points and see evidence of a
military base and towers where armed guards look down on you with
stern faces.
As we were up on a ridge on a nice day
we continuously profited from good views either to the high and rocky
Bukhansan mountain to the North, Seoul to the south, or both. The
views facing Seoul looked across the older section of the city over
to Namsan mountain where Seoul Tower is located. Just below us we
could see into Seoul's largest palace Gyeongbokgung and the stretched
out Gwanghwamun square in front of it.
The last stretch of the hike was a
steep descent down stairs to Changuimun gate. The entire perimeter
of the Seoul fortress wall stretches a total of 18.7 kilometers
crossing over three of Seoul's mountains. The hike connects eight
gates, four smaller gates and four larger gates. The stretch from
Sukjeongmun (one of the larger gates) to Changuimun (one of the four
smaller gates) is a mere two kilometers of the total perimeter. The
map presented to the visitor at the start of the hike has four empty
spaces reserved for stamps from each of the larger gates. When all
stamps are present on the map, signifying a visit to the four main
gates, the visitor gets a badge of accomplishment. One down, and
four to go for me.
After nearly two hours on the trail,
hiking at a slow pace and taking in the sites, we bussed it down to
town for some lunch of noodles and Kimchijeon (Kimchi pancake) at a
small market stall. Following our lunch we relaxed a bit on the
grass of a park just outside the royal shrine as an ancestral
procession was taking place inside. The day was a good introduction
to Seoul's outdoor recreation, history and cultural offerings leaving
the foreigners present, including myself, excited for the year to
come living in South Korea.
No comments:
Post a Comment